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Fixed - Creak or click from bottom bracket

Aug 27, 2020 - 6:55 PM

Viewed 1681 times

  • A number of people have had unwanted noise coming from the pedal/crank. This has been raised with @support by a number of us. There is a solution. First things first you do need to check that it is not something very simple (a loose pedal, a loose saddle pin, a loose saddle or loose chain ring bolts -- all of these give rise to possible noises and creaks that 'seem' to come from the pedal area). If all that fails you probably (almost certainly) have an insufficiently tightened bottom bracket bearing. This was obviously an assembly issue at the factory and has now been sorted but it affects some of the first AMX off the production line. To fix this you need to remove the left hand crank, tighten the retaining ring for the bottom bracket bearing and replace the crank. I am in touch with support to get a guide to doing this. A couple of tools are required. You may therefore need the assistance of a friendly bike shop. But watch this space. And if you have this issue contact support. They have been over-run with queries about delivery but will prioritise this issue. There is another thread in Technical Discussion where you will find pictures and users who have fixed this. See https://analogmotion.com/community/forums/forums/5092-amx-technical-discussion/topics/18397-creaking-from-the-pedals-carbon-belt-amx-classic

    This post was edited Aug 27, 2020 07:03PM
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  • Here we go with some pictures.

    • Remove LHS crank retaining bolt.
    • Use tool to remove LHS crank
    • Use Shimano style tool and torque wrench (if you have one - if not aim for tight!) to check and tighten bottom bracket retaining ring. I used 42Nm (mine was probably at 30Nm to start with and wasn't creaking).
    • Replace LHS crank
    • Tighten LHS retaining bolt bearing in mind that the crank is on a taper and so needs to be progressively tightened onto taper. Keep going until serious resistance it met.
    • Ride away creak free 😀

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    This post was edited Aug 27, 2020 08:50PM
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  • CJM1066.
    Thanks for sharing this.
    Tried and failed.
    All the tools required for this fix are not included in the AM toolkit.
    I had an 8mm allen key for step 1: remove crank retaining bolt.
    But not the crank removing tool (for step 2) and the bottom bracket tightening piece (for step 3). I bought these extra tools (as I guess most of the others with creaking bikes would have to do)

    Failed at step 2: removing the crank arm.
    I successfully installed the threaded coupler, then when tightening the spindle driver as soon as it contacted the outer edge of the spindle, the torque required to turn further was so high I had to stop for fear of damaging something (the bike or myself).

    So I've spent more money, invested more time and I'm no further on and increasingly cheesed off.
    I don't know what level of rework / repair AM expect the customer to do, but this is a bit much in my opinion. Having to buy tools and still then its so difficult that I couldn't do it (and I'm not a novice at bike maintenance).

    Hopefully somebody from AM is reading this and will explain what I should do next.
    I've raised though AM support, no reply yet, and I've respected your request not to send duplicate message to AM support.
    I know you're busy at AM, but as far as I can see on this forum this creaking is your biggest problem.... My good will is rapidly running out.... Please please please sort this out!

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  • @christianfisher completely agree

    This is a ‘solution’ for a problem that should not exist.

    Mine has gone on to create further damage. I’m so annoyed at AM silence. It’s a disgrace.

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  • I went to my local bike shop/specialist and handed him this 'solution'. He followed all the steps and at the end the left peddle was so close to/hitting the rear frame that I couldn't cycle anymore (so I can't even confirm if it solved the creaking!). I wonder if anyone else has this new problem.. if so then maybe that's the reason why AM didn't tighten the bracket enough and why it's now creaking...

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  • @cjm1066 Thanks so much for taking the time to document and post this.

    @christianfisher The torque required (https://analogmotion.helpdocs.io/article/ieqcvs7s0q-amx-user-manual#23_0_recommended_torque_settings) to tighten both the BB cup and the crank arm should not be enough to cause you to strain. Our support is extremely busy right now but I will make sure your enquiry to AM support is addressed. Thank you for your patience.

    @simonbugler I've ensured that your support ticket has been seen to.

    @nikolauszahn The left crank arm should not be close enough to the frame to touch it. It has likely been over-torqued by the bike shop. I see you are speaking to our support team and we can address this here

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  • Hi @nikolauszahn - well as the poster of the fix I have to comment here. That is just insanity. I am attaching photos of just how much clearance there is on a fully tightened and correctly torqued up crank set. Mine. There is NO WAY you can have zero clearance (crank will not go on that far) unless someone has attacked the tightening process in such a way as to split a crank. That would require huge over-tightening.

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  • @christianfisher if the coupler is screwed fully in, then you just have to have courage and tighten the spindle driver until it starts to force the crank off. Yes it does take a fair bit of force but personally I have never encountered one that has failed ... and I have removed a lot of cranks!

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  • CJM1066:
    Hi @nikolauszahn - well as the poster of the fix I have to comment here. That is just insanity. I am attaching photos of just how much clearance there is on a fully tightened and correctly torqued up crank set. Mine. There is NO WAY you can have zero clearance (crank will not go on that far) unless someone has attacked the tightening process in such a way as to split a crank. That would require huge over-tightening.

    @cjm1066 what can I say, I didn't trust myself so I went to a professional to have the bracket issue fixed - not sure what he did as I wasn't present when he did it, but I did see the result and the left crank arm was hitting the the rear bar - I could not do a full turn. I have difficulties imagening this guy not knowing what he's doing, the shop's been successfully around for many years.

    the pictures you posted, is that from an AMX classic (not LE) or another model?
    Thanks, Nik

    PS: the bike shop has now ordered a new (wider) bracket?

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  • Could you guys share the size/specifications of the bottom bracket nut? I want to buy the tool but the ‘Shimano Style’ has several options.

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  • This issue sucks, only started after 250km for me. I had to go to a student bike repair shop and fix it there myself because all the regular bike shops wont touch such a fancy bike. Hope this issue doesn't return over time again.

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  • Chris Timmermans:
    Could you guys share the size/specifications of the bottom bracket nut? I want to buy the tool but the ‘Shimano Style’ has several options.

    Your name looks Dutch... I bought this one in a Dutch shop and it works: https://www.toolstation.nl/trapassleutel/p56112

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  • The bottom bracket on my AMX started cracking after 90km. Also tried this fix and happy to say it looks like it has solved the problem. Have now riden another 100k without the crack returning, hope it stays away...

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  • CJM1066:
    Hi @nikolauszahn - well as the poster of the fix I have to comment here. That is just insanity. I am attaching photos of just how much clearance there is on a fully tightened and correctly torqued up crank set. Mine. There is NO WAY you can have zero clearance (crank will not go on that far) unless someone has attacked the tightening process in such a way as to split a crank. That would require huge over-tightening.

    Hi @cjm1066 a quick update on this issue. My bike shop didn't replace the backet in the end but instead grinded off a few Millimeters off the left crank arm. I have had an operation on my thumb so I wasn't able to test this 'fix' yet but will report if the cracking sound has gone once I am able to..

    PS: by the way your support is awesome! I had an issue with some delivery damages on one of our two bikes and you guys went out of your way to get replacement parts to me! Just to stress the point I am not an unhappy backer :)

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  • This fixed my problem but had to pay for a shop to do it since I didnt have the tool required. We should not have to do that on a brand new bike.

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  • Thanks for the guide, we now have an official guide on helpdocs:
    https://analogmotion.helpdocs.io/article/1izn6acopp-my-amx-is-doing-creaky-noises-when-i-ride

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  • I fixed this today on my AMX, and only afterwards found the new guide.
    The new guide mentions 35Nm, but I've now already adjusted it to 42Nm as suggested by by @CJM1066. Should I loosen it a bit again?

    This post was edited Oct 15, 2020 10:11PM
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  • Hi @lehni I got my figure from Shimano bottom brackets but square taper bottom bracket assembly is pretty standard. Compared to what most people achieve without the proper tools (torque wrench) you (and I) are well within tolerance of these. So no -- its fine!!.

    This post was edited Oct 15, 2020 10:40PM
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  • Quick PS -- the usual range given by manufacturers is 35 - 50 Nm..... So 42 is pretty much in the middle. AM are giving the minimum. That's probably a good idea given that some users might be over-enthusiastic! But you are on the money with 42

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  • Thank you @cjm1066! I did some research online and also found this range, just wanted to make sure since I don't know which crankset it actually is.

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